Food Review by Jamie Maw

In final preparation for Pirouette, Honourary Chair Jamie Maw visited Manteo Resort for a preview of Chef Bernard Casavant's course ... here is his official review:

Game On at Pirouette!
Casavant’s Beefy Course Judged ‘Light On Its Feet!’ . . .
This afternoon, at 1615 hours precisely, Chef Bernard Casavant and his Manteo brigade previewed their Pirouette 2010 entrée course for a group of willing supplicants.
The duet of Black Creek Ranch beef was extraordinary: the strip loin (we all preferred chef’s second, barely fat-capped version, which caught the char), a rosy and surprisingly easy (for honest, grass-raised steers) chew. It reminded me that I’m just old enough to remember what beef actually used to taste like.
As for the beef terrine? Well it chimed unctuously too, although chef Casavant thought that he might have ‘a bit more structural work to do – perhaps a julienne of some beef tongue as re-bar,’ he added. Or will shortly do. Can’t wait.
The vanilla-smooched celeriac purée was a delicious understudy; it sought out the oak of the Aces Pocket Kings Bordeaux-styled blend: a proper—even arranged—marriage for a wine that has softened over the past two months, according to Manteo Sommelier Erika Staffanson, who knows about these things, and who will be a special Guest Sommelier at Pirouette.
A ‘frieco’ snap of Reggiano-promoted crispness nailed a textural synapse, and a tasty umami, especially against duvet-light basil gnocchi (Bernard is still trying to track down the New Zealand winter spinach); as always, modestly, he credited a second-year apprentice with the cloudlike gnocchi.
The tip-to-tail component? Chef and crew made their demi, which occupies the outer moat in the upper photo, from the Black Creek beef bones, and not veal. The last time he made a beef demi (Bruce Willis, please copy), Bernard said, was a long, long time ago, and in a galaxy . . . anyway, it was properly stocky.
The tiara of cress, now in local abundance, was slicked with a truffled vinaigrette, an unusual, top-note whiff, to be sure, that tricked the dish.
But wait, there was more: A tray of condiments that centred the table and
then the flavours:  Apple wood smoked-salt flakes; charred, deeply braised scallions; and a lightly spanked essence of Harker’s Farm ‘Santa Rosa’ plums that, quite memorably, was as sunny as a summer day in Cawston.
Just a few seats remain for Pirouette 2010. Please contact Debbie MacMillan at 250–764-4803 for tickets: $250, with a tax receipt of $125, about the price of an average restaurant dinner. Except here, expect seven of the Okanagan’s Master chefs, 12 wineries, ballerinas a-leaping, two auctions, and a tip-top after party.

Download Review with Photos: Media Release - Food Review of Pirouette Preview by Jamie Maw.pdf